Destination: Mal País, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica

These are the travel details from my recent trip to Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica – March/April 2009 that might help you when planning your own trip to the beautiful, off-the-beaten-track surfer town of Mal País.

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Getting from San Jose to Mal País:

From San Jose, you can contact Montezuma Expeditions (www.montezumaexpeditions.com) to arrange for a shuttle to Mal País. You can either arrange for transportation only (approx $45USD) or if going directly to Mal País after arriving in San Jose, you can get a shuttle pack that includes one night accommodation in a hotel in Alajuela. The shuttle picks up at 6AM. Hotel reimburses the taxi fare from airport to hotel ($5 USD). The shuttle pack costs $70USD and you will pay the driver once you reach the ferry at Puntarenas. Drive is approximately 6 hours from San Jose to Mal Pais with a 1 hour ferry ride from Puntarenas to Paquera. At Paquera, a driver with the Montezuma sign picks up and drives to Mal País, usually stopping through Montezuma.

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Once in Mal Pais/Playa Carmen:

In Mal Pais, left of the intersection is Mal Pais, right of the intersection is Playa Carmen and further down, Santa Teresa. Most shops, restaurants, cafes, banks are at that Playa Carmen intersection so any accommodation around there is your best bet.

There are two banks, restaurants, internet cafes, boutiques. surf shops, convenience stores, supermarket and much more.

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Accommodation:

I stayed at the Mal Pais Surf Camp – www.malpaissurfcamp.com (left of intersection), only about a 5 minute walk from central Playa Carmen (down from intersection is beach access).

The surf camp offers different levels of accommodations from communal ranchos ($15 USD a night) to luxurious villas ($95 a night). There is a restaurant and bar on site (food is good but US prices compared to cheaper food in local restaurants in Playa Carmen). The staff is very friendly and can help organize day trips and other activities. There are surf lessons available and board rentals. The atmosphere is quiet, laid back and the frequent traffic of travelers ensures you’ll meet interesting, fun people of like-mind.

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Other accommodation choices in the area include:

The Place – http://theplacemalpais.com/

Ritmo Tropical – http://ritmotropicalmalpais.com/

Playa Carmen Hotel – http://www.playacarmen-hotel.com/

Frank’s Place – http://www.franksplacecr.com/

Tranquilo Backpackers Hostel – http://www.tranquilobackpackers.com/new/malpaisenglish.html

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Activities in and Around Mal Pais:

Mal Pais Canopy Tour – http://canopydelpacifico.com/

Isla Tortuga Snorkling Tour – http://www.zumatours.net/tortuga_island_tour.html

Montezuma Canopy & Waterfall Tour – http://www.suntrailsadventures.com/

Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve – http://www.nicoyapeninsula.com/caboblanco/

Horseback Riding – www.zumatours.net

Sport Fishing – www.zumatours.net

Surfing (Playa Carmen for beginner/intermediate surfers; many other beaches up the coast for more advanced surfers)

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Restaurants & Night Life:

If you are going to spend a few days in Mal Pais, you definitely have to check out the Vista de Olas resort’s infinity pool during a sunset. The view is spectacular and the whole atmosphere is relaxed and fun.

Left of the intersection, continue down the road about 5-8 minute drive. You can hire a taxi for 500 colones or you can even walk (15-20 minutes). If you arrive at around 4pm, you can relax in the beautiful infinity pool, grab a drink at the pool bar while you swim and wade, enjoy the view and wait for the beautiful sunset. You need to spend a minimum of 5500 colones (approx $10 USD) but drinks are cheap and the dinner is well worth it (choice of different meats you can cook yourself over the BBQ and unlimited salad bar).

http://www.vistadeolas.com/

In Playa Carmen, good restaurants and bars include:

- D&N Beach Club – amazing outdoor bar terrace right by the beach. On a clear night, a spectacular view of the star-filled sky serves as a perfect backdrop for dancing and socializing. When I visited, Monday nights were reggae night with live performances.

- The Howler Monkey is a popular bar.

- Tranquilo Backpackers Hostel is very much a party hostel for those looking for a good time. If you choose to stay here, know that you won’t necessarily get a good night’s sleep!

- Las Piedras – Great food roasted on an open BBQ

- Cafe Artemis – Free WIFI, cafe/bar and terrace. www.artemiscafe.com

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Getting Around:

Getting around, many people rent ATVs or bikes but it is advised to have a mask or bandana to cover face because the roads get VERY dusty during dry season. There are buses to nearby Montezuma through Cóbano (approx 30 mins to Cóbano for approx 600 colones), and then 20 mins from Cóbano to Montezuma (300 colones). You can arrange for a taxi to take you directly from Mal Pais to Montezuma for approx. $30 USD each way. The drive is about 30 minutes.

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Montezuma:

Montezuma is a nice bohemian town with many a backpacker hostel and hotel. Many tour operators operate out of Montezuma with day trips to Isla Tortuga for snorkling, Montezuma zipline Canopy Tours, sports fishing, 1 hour boat ride to Jáco, trips to Cabo Blanco Reserve and more. The pristine beaches stretch for miles and the whole vibe of the town is laid back. During the spring, there are local artisans setting up tables along the main road selling artsy jewellery and other things.

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Photo Gallery

Costa Rica (March 25th-April 3rd, 2009)
149 photos
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Destination: Glastonbury, Somerset, England – Food

Built in the 1400’s, the George and Pilgrim Hotel is centrally located on Glastonbury High Street. It is definitely a building with character as it has maintained it’s old, historic ambiance despite recent refurbishments.

The hotel lobby, bar and restaurant areas feature some magnificent wall paintings by local artist Yuri Leitch, in keeping with Glastonbury’s reputation for magic and mystery. The antique decor makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time and the building itself is said to be haunted.

While I did not stay in the Hotel itself, I did frquent the bar for a few drinks (the mead was DIVINE) and an absolutely delicious meal. The restaurant has an A La Carte menu serving freshly prepared home cooked food. I tried the fish and chip platter and it was probably one of the best I’ve had with its massive wedge chips, juicy fish and incredibly tasty tartar sauce. The chocolate tart was rich and absolutely exquisite, a perfect way to end an incredible meal.

The service was fabulous as the staff were very friendly and smiley. This place is supposed to be great for events and special occasions and is more of a family and quiet-evening sort of place rather than loud and rowdy.

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The George & Pilgrim Hotel
1 High Street, Glastonbury, Somerset
Glastonbury, United Kingdom
01458 831146

www.thegeorgeandpilgrim.co.uk/

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• Originally written by Kelly Woo as a TravBuddy review

Destination: Edinburgh, Scotland – Food

As I crossed the Meadows and eyed the golf course along the way, I thought we were just headed to some random pub for a good Scottish fry-up after a fun night of drinking. Little did I know, that breakfast place was actually a famous Edinburgh pub devoted to the rich history of Scottish golf.

Established in 1456, the Golf Tavern is a charming mixture of old and new. Situated in a lovely building across the Meadows and only a short walk from busy Princes Street, this place houses a great collection of golf memorabilia and offers everything one would look for in a modern sports bar: great modern decor, big screen TVs, delicious pub food and traditional Scottish meals. This is a popular hang out for sports enthusiasts, golf enthusiasts, students, and even the traveler looking for a hearty Scottish breakfast, haggis included.

After a night on the town, the Golf Tavern’s traditional Scottish breakfast hit the spot, complete with eggs, haggis, black pudding, potato scones, sausage, baked beans, mushrooms and tomato. I consider myself somewhat adventurous when it comes to food so the haggis and black pudding were my challenge. Unsure at first, these two ended up surprising me and were quite delicious. I nearly finished my entire plate.

All in all, a place with a nice atmosphere, delicious food and good service. If I had an enjoyable breakfast, I can’t imagine how fun it must be during game time.

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The Golf Tavern
30-31 Wright’s Houses, Edinburgh
Edinburgh, United Kingdom
0131 221 5 221

www.golftavern.co.uk/

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• Originally written by Kelly Woo as a TravBuddy review