Destination: Mal País, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica

These are the travel details from my recent trip to Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica – March/April 2009 that might help you when planning your own trip to the beautiful, off-the-beaten-track surfer town of Mal País.

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Getting from San Jose to Mal País:

From San Jose, you can contact Montezuma Expeditions (www.montezumaexpeditions.com) to arrange for a shuttle to Mal País. You can either arrange for transportation only (approx $45USD) or if going directly to Mal País after arriving in San Jose, you can get a shuttle pack that includes one night accommodation in a hotel in Alajuela. The shuttle picks up at 6AM. Hotel reimburses the taxi fare from airport to hotel ($5 USD). The shuttle pack costs $70USD and you will pay the driver once you reach the ferry at Puntarenas. Drive is approximately 6 hours from San Jose to Mal Pais with a 1 hour ferry ride from Puntarenas to Paquera. At Paquera, a driver with the Montezuma sign picks up and drives to Mal País, usually stopping through Montezuma.

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Once in Mal Pais/Playa Carmen:

In Mal Pais, left of the intersection is Mal Pais, right of the intersection is Playa Carmen and further down, Santa Teresa. Most shops, restaurants, cafes, banks are at that Playa Carmen intersection so any accommodation around there is your best bet.

There are two banks, restaurants, internet cafes, boutiques. surf shops, convenience stores, supermarket and much more.

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Accommodation:

I stayed at the Mal Pais Surf Camp – www.malpaissurfcamp.com (left of intersection), only about a 5 minute walk from central Playa Carmen (down from intersection is beach access).

The surf camp offers different levels of accommodations from communal ranchos ($15 USD a night) to luxurious villas ($95 a night). There is a restaurant and bar on site (food is good but US prices compared to cheaper food in local restaurants in Playa Carmen). The staff is very friendly and can help organize day trips and other activities. There are surf lessons available and board rentals. The atmosphere is quiet, laid back and the frequent traffic of travelers ensures you’ll meet interesting, fun people of like-mind.

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Other accommodation choices in the area include:

The Place – http://theplacemalpais.com/

Ritmo Tropical – http://ritmotropicalmalpais.com/

Playa Carmen Hotel – http://www.playacarmen-hotel.com/

Frank’s Place – http://www.franksplacecr.com/

Tranquilo Backpackers Hostel – http://www.tranquilobackpackers.com/new/malpaisenglish.html

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Activities in and Around Mal Pais:

Mal Pais Canopy Tour – http://canopydelpacifico.com/

Isla Tortuga Snorkling Tour – http://www.zumatours.net/tortuga_island_tour.html

Montezuma Canopy & Waterfall Tour – http://www.suntrailsadventures.com/

Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve – http://www.nicoyapeninsula.com/caboblanco/

Horseback Riding – www.zumatours.net

Sport Fishing – www.zumatours.net

Surfing (Playa Carmen for beginner/intermediate surfers; many other beaches up the coast for more advanced surfers)

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Restaurants & Night Life:

If you are going to spend a few days in Mal Pais, you definitely have to check out the Vista de Olas resort’s infinity pool during a sunset. The view is spectacular and the whole atmosphere is relaxed and fun.

Left of the intersection, continue down the road about 5-8 minute drive. You can hire a taxi for 500 colones or you can even walk (15-20 minutes). If you arrive at around 4pm, you can relax in the beautiful infinity pool, grab a drink at the pool bar while you swim and wade, enjoy the view and wait for the beautiful sunset. You need to spend a minimum of 5500 colones (approx $10 USD) but drinks are cheap and the dinner is well worth it (choice of different meats you can cook yourself over the BBQ and unlimited salad bar).

http://www.vistadeolas.com/

In Playa Carmen, good restaurants and bars include:

- D&N Beach Club – amazing outdoor bar terrace right by the beach. On a clear night, a spectacular view of the star-filled sky serves as a perfect backdrop for dancing and socializing. When I visited, Monday nights were reggae night with live performances.

- The Howler Monkey is a popular bar.

- Tranquilo Backpackers Hostel is very much a party hostel for those looking for a good time. If you choose to stay here, know that you won’t necessarily get a good night’s sleep!

- Las Piedras – Great food roasted on an open BBQ

- Cafe Artemis – Free WIFI, cafe/bar and terrace. www.artemiscafe.com

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Getting Around:

Getting around, many people rent ATVs or bikes but it is advised to have a mask or bandana to cover face because the roads get VERY dusty during dry season. There are buses to nearby Montezuma through Cóbano (approx 30 mins to Cóbano for approx 600 colones), and then 20 mins from Cóbano to Montezuma (300 colones). You can arrange for a taxi to take you directly from Mal Pais to Montezuma for approx. $30 USD each way. The drive is about 30 minutes.

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Montezuma:

Montezuma is a nice bohemian town with many a backpacker hostel and hotel. Many tour operators operate out of Montezuma with day trips to Isla Tortuga for snorkling, Montezuma zipline Canopy Tours, sports fishing, 1 hour boat ride to Jáco, trips to Cabo Blanco Reserve and more. The pristine beaches stretch for miles and the whole vibe of the town is laid back. During the spring, there are local artisans setting up tables along the main road selling artsy jewellery and other things.

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Photo Gallery

Costa Rica (March 25th-April 3rd, 2009)
149 photos
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Destination: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Montreal is a fantastic city with a rich culture and diversity and an interesting history. Combining modern architecture and lifestyles with an old world feel, Montreal is definitely a Canadian city worth visiting all year-round. Despite being a predominately French-speaking city, you will be able to get by with English as English is the secondary language of the city.

If you’re only visiting for a few days, be sure to explore Old Montreal and the Old Port. Wander along historic cobblestone streets lined with old European-esque buildings. Explore the many artisan, trendy, and novelty boutiques and sit and indulge in the culinary delights of the cafés and fine restaurants. If the weather is nice, sit out on one of the many terraces and “people watch” as Old Montreal is very busy in the warmer seasons with all kinds of people passing through, whether locals our tourists. Place Jacques-Cartier entertains with street performers, kiosques selling knick-knacks and gift items, and many artists willing to sketch a portrait or caricature. The Old Port is a popular place to visit with people strolling along the port, roller-blading, biking, or picnicking with family and friends. In the same area, the Notre-Dame Basilica is also one of Montreal’s great treasures with its beautiful wood carvings, stained glass windows and majestic pipe organ. It is not to be missed!

From Old Montreal, it’s only 2-3 metro stops to St. Denis street and the the Plateau where you will find lots of interesting shops and cafés, bars and pubs. Bar St. Sulpice is particularly fun during the warmer seasons as they have a very large outdoor terrace that can get quite packed. The more, the merrier! If you prefer some trendier nightspots, St. Laurent street is a few blocks over with plenty of bars, lounges and clubs to choose from.

Crescent Street also boasts lots of popular nightspots if you’re looking to bar hop. It is definitely “party central” and is located smack in the heart of downtown Montreal. It is perpendicular to Ste. Catherine street which is the heart of Montreal shopping and business.

If you’re around on a Sunday, have a nice breakfast at one of our many breakfast restaurants such as Chez Cora, and if it’s a nice day, head to Mount Royal to feel the rhythm of the Tam Tams. Bring a drum and play along or set up a picnic and ride the wild rhythms of the drummers drumming and dancers dancing. Walk through the park and catch an amazing view of the entire city from the mountaintop.

Montreal is a festival city so if you visit during the summer, chances are you will be able to catch some of the action. There’s the International Jazz Festival, Just for Laughs comedy festival, the World Film Festival, Fantasia genre film festival, Francofolies, International Fireworks festival, Black and Blue festival, and so many more!

If you visit during the fall and winter, then try to get tickets to see the Montreal Canadiens play at the Bell Centre! We are a hockey town and Montreal fans are famous for their devotion to their team. You will never experience anything so energetic and exciting! If you like to ski or snowboard, there are plenty of ski hills nearby to thrill you.

Other typical Montreal attractions are the St. Joseph’s Oratory, Montreal Casino, La Ronde theme park, Biodome, Botanical Gardens, Olympic Stadium, and many other treasures just waiting to be discovered.

There are so many layers to Montreal that it is impossible to see everything in just a few days. See and EXPERIENCE as much as you can and maybe your path will lead you back to our wonderful corner of the world.

“Montréal, je t’aime!”

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• Kelly was born and raised in Montreal and currently resides in Montreal’s West Island.